A few days of wistful, with weather to match-grey and foggy. Our internal clocks have adjusted, as have our appetites. Regular routines, like laundry and shopping, and work have assumed their place. The other day, however, I opened the spice bags, added a touch of Aleppo pepper to the lamb/rice meatballs, and then I removed […]

October 10 This morning, another beautiful day dawns, clear and crisp. The weather has definitely turned. Crowded on the rooftop, we say our farewells to the city we all swear we shall revisit. The sun winks on the water, polishes the gold of the Sultanahmet Mosque, silhouettes the Galata Tower, as, off in the distance, […]

October 4-9, Istanbul Friday night was the most riotous of the entire tour.  Nineteen of us made our way to Taksim Square, the heart of Istanbul hipness and Youth Central.  Among the 18 million people living in the metropolis, it seemed like a million of them were there that night, streaming along the pedestrian spine […]

October 3 On the plane from Izmir to Mardin, where temperatures promise to be in the 90’s, and dry.  The flight instructional video was very effective, as it featured child actors in all parts, including pilot.  Hysterical (although we Americans were the only ones laughing), with some subtexts: children are the future, children are really […]

September 30 From Afyon, a three hour bus ride to Pamukkale, where some went to bathe in the medicinal waters, and others went to view the ruins of Hierapolis.  The waters were warm and soothing.  One can see why the site was chosen by the Greeks: thermal baths, atop a mountain of brillant white calcium […]

September 29 An early rise for the balloon ride. Great experience to see the landscape from that perspective, and to see the extent of settlement in the rocks. Larry, who ordinarily does not like heights, enjoyed himself thoroughly. Larry, intrepid Dore Stein Peppers drying Goreme Valley vineyards “Love Valley” Larry on terra firma Konya: a […]

Sept 26Way early morning departure for the airport on the Asian side.  A swift ride through the streets normally clogged with traffic, over the Bosphorus bridge, past the acres of new housing and modern buildings.  A couple of hours in the airport, a short plane ride over dry and wrinkly terrain, and we arrived in […]

September 25 Tour of the Hagia Sophia, with a superb guide, Jihan (phonetic spelling used here). We are in a group that likes to ask questions, so a three and half hour tour stretched to around five. The inside of the building is awesome, and both architecturally innovative and inspirational in its time. Byzantine wonder. […]

September 24 Bosporus Cruise: we all trooped down to the ferry at Eminonu, embarking for the hour and a half cruise up the Bosporus, almost to the Black Sea. The water is a beautiful deep bluegreen, turquoise when churned by a propeller. Our ferry was loaded up with tourists from all parts, eager to take […]

September 23, 2012 Our second morning in Istanbul heralds another warm day.  The sky is clear, with smog and haze on the horizon; a soft breeze stirs, lifting the heat.  From the small rooftop of the Spina, the view is unrivaled. To the east,  the Bosphorus sparkles, the large boats steaming by, the smaller ones […]

Sept 21-Frankfurt airport- Waiting for the flight to Istanbul, and–what time is it? Or, as they say in Turkish, saat kach? We had what they referred to as “a short night” on the plane: a few hours of darkness, during which we slept very little.  Luftansa is a cushy ride, with cool bathrooms and a […]